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  (#31)
squeeforever
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09.25.2006, 10:55 PM

Yea. The Neu motor would be my choice, but the 4600 would be a cheap alternative...
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  (#32)
captain harlock
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09.26.2006, 06:41 AM

I did not mean ineffecient-literally- but probably I did not put it the right way.
I also thought he should go down in the number of teeth for the pinion.
Again, a segmented rotor with a rpm between 2700-3000 will be perfect.:003:


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  (#33)
Sower
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09.26.2006, 10:47 AM

Hey guys, thanks for keeping this going. I've ordered the 12 tooth pinion from the site here, and I think I have found a place that has Mod1 pinions with 1/8 shafts from 10 and 11 teeth. I really think that's the challenge. If the pinion doesn't work, then I'm going to get a Neu motor. I don't have anything against the 4600, but I don't want to be limited by it either. The Mamba Max controller will work fine if the motor is running efficiently. Plus, I think I would have to change my battery setup with the 4600 to get proper voltage. Right now I have two 11.1v 3100 mah 3c Polyquest li-po's in parallel. I'm still learning a lot though, so maybe not.
   
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Serum
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09.26.2006, 10:47 AM

yes, indeed.

does anyone know if the MM's are segmented?
   
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Sower
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09.26.2006, 10:56 AM

Hey Serum! Thanks for checking back in. I'm not sure if they're segmented or not. I guess we could find out from CC though. I'll see what I can find.

By the way, do you think a 10 tooth pinion is too small?
   
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  (#36)
Serum
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09.26.2006, 10:59 AM

Observe the temperature of the cells, batteries and controller, they are one the best measurement devices you can get on determining the proper gearing.
   
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  (#37)
Sower
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09.26.2006, 11:04 AM

Ok. Well, I'll see how the 12 tooth does and let you guys know. The batteries are never hot - they do great. But they put out a ton of power so that's the least of my concerns.

I know CC says the motor should be fine up to 200, but what would you say is a good target temp to shoot for?
   
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  (#38)
Serum
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09.26.2006, 11:08 AM

200 is the maxximum (a bit higher even)

but i get concerned when the temps are getting above 170F
   
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  (#39)
Sower
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09.26.2006, 11:16 AM

Great. Thanks. I'll shoot for that and see what I get. My gut tells me going from a 13t to a 12t isn't going to be enough. I think I'm going to need a 11t or quite possibly a 10t.
   
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  (#40)
captain harlock
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09.26.2006, 01:02 PM

Sower, how about openning the Mamba Max motor and check the rotor?
If it has any segments or not?
Just curiousity.


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  (#41)
Sower
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09.26.2006, 01:05 PM

Boy, that's a lot more work than waiting for CC to reply to my e-mail :027:

Seriously though, I'm not sure I'm comfortable enough with my abilities there. You guys are way ahead of me in this area.
   
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  (#42)
MetalMan
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09.26.2006, 04:34 PM

The Mamba Max motors aren't meant to be rebuildable. There's epoxy holding the endbells on, and the screws have some strong threadlock on them as well (making it difficult to get the screws out). When I opened up my 4600, I noticed that the rotor looked like a standard non-segmented one, since it looked similar to the rotor from my Feigao 12s.


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  (#43)
Serum
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09.26.2006, 05:56 PM

Yeah, that makes sence Metal. Also one block of magnet?

i heard people shredding the screws, so taking them apart might be a pita
   
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  (#44)
MetalMan
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09.26.2006, 08:09 PM

The magnet is only one piece, as confirmed by Radio Control Car Action's description.
I have almost stripped the screw heads on my 5700 motor trying to get the screws out. At that point I stopped trying to get the 5700 apart.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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  (#45)
Serum
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09.27.2006, 01:52 AM

Thanks Metal. it would surprise me if it was a segmented one for that money.
   
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