 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
01.13.2011, 02:34 PM
Although I have no experience with a Dubro Tap. I dont think you will have a problem tapping the Aluminum. Which type AL are you going to go with 60 series or 70? I just used a cheap Kobalt brand tap and die set. Bought from Lowes. I think it is the Lowes "Home Brand". Just take your time and make sure you get the tap started in the hole straight.
Thanks for posting in my thread. I was just reading through yours yesterday before you commented. I looks forward to seeing what you come up with as well...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
|
01.13.2011, 02:53 PM
Al is very easy to thread. I do alot of mine with just a screwdrive style tap holder and a steady hand. M3 and m4 threads usually do not even require any cutting oil. Just go slow, and when you feel some resistance turn the tab backwards 1/8 of a turn or so.
Best method I found to getting holes tapped perfect was to chuck the tap into the drill press and just turn it by hand while advancing it with light pressure on the press handle.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
01.13.2011, 08:28 PM
So I am sitting & looking at the Excess 1/4" 6061, I have here and I thinking I can make an easy extended Rustler Chassis. I already have the FLM "Extended chasssis" But it only pushes the wheelbase to 12.5" ( 1 inch extension) and that thing is still just a wheely king.
I have just enough to make a simple chassis that will stretch the WB of the Rustler to about 16 inches even. I am thinking about trying out a "Mini Baja" type vehicle. Instead of a body maybe make a roll cage out of some Nylon rods or something.
Anyone ever seen a Rustler with an extreme WB like that ? I would love to take a look...
Thanks, Sean.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
What I have been working on... -
01.17.2011, 12:01 AM
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 01.17.2011 at 12:10 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
Rear Mount -
01.17.2011, 12:09 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
01.18.2011, 01:34 AM
Raced the Maxx against our Ofna buggies and I was keeping a 1/2 lap lead for a good 6 laps. Man this thing is handling SWEEEET!
I WILL Have videos. Our "Track" is just an Oval out in the riverbed. But it is so much fun!
I blew a rear shock on the SC8ight and I think I might buy some MBX6 shocks for all around rather than a rebuild.....
Maxx 1717 CD 14/50 Badlands 55mph...
LX1E 1512 2650 14/51 Stock tires 65mph...
LX Comp 1518 18/51 Proline Crimefighter. 62mph...
All 6s, Crazy Fun
Oh and bought all new bearings for all three of my rides for 48 shipped from avid RC
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Titanium
Offline
Posts: 1,884
Join Date: Jul 2009
|
01.18.2011, 01:48 AM
Have you ever used Avid bearings before? I am using them for my Jammin on-road, so wondering how they are. I got the dual-sealed (one metal shield, one red rubber seal) to try out.
Caster Fusion F8T - Serpent 811Be - Jammin X2 carbon e-GT conversion - Axial SCX10
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
01.18.2011, 02:20 AM
No, this would be my first purchase from them. But I have many good things about them. I was also going to go for the "Revolution" or something 1 rubber 1 metal side. But I opted for dual Rubber since I run 80% off road.
The Revo. should be optimal I would think for the On-road though. minimal dirt/dust
Have you looked into bodies yet>? I really like that CF build. Top notch.
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 01.18.2011 at 02:22 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Titanium
Offline
Posts: 1,884
Join Date: Jul 2009
|
01.18.2011, 03:45 AM
Been browsing for awhile, still need to save the cash up for one. I'm either going to get one of the Deltaplastik, or a pre-painted, pre-finished IGT1 body. I'm leaning towards the IGT1, the Deltaplastik bodies are awesome and tons to choose from, but $90 for a clear body might be more than I'm willing to pay.
Caster Fusion F8T - Serpent 811Be - Jammin X2 carbon e-GT conversion - Axial SCX10
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RC-Monster Titanium
Offline
Posts: 1,419
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
|
01.18.2011, 02:49 PM
Good stuff man. I really like the Avid bearings. I am using them in my Mutant Maxx in all the knuckles. Revolution on the inside and rubber on the outside. They are all smooth.
That Maxx does sound like a good runner. 6s woohoo! lol
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
01.25.2011, 04:50 PM
Well, I got the new bodies all painted and they are looking pretty killer... I got some shots but I am at work and I didnt load them to photobucket yet... I will post them up later along with some shots of the "Rustler"...
Well I made my new chassis for the Rustler. It was actually extremely easy. Only took about an hour and half to file, drill and countersink all the holes. Its not something crazy fancy, its actually more like a Low CG - Super Stretched Stampede. Only thing I need to MOD is how the Steering top plate connects. The plates sits about 1/4" too wide for my chassis. So I may just make a small Block to attach the chassis to the top plate behind the servo. Should be simple and actually will act as a battery stop for the front.
It is 1/4" 6061-T6511 ~3 wide (not at home, cant remember). Wheelbase is right around 16 inches, and is not too stupid looking considering the width ( I have the EXT FLM Arms). It should actually look pretty cool once I hook up some "Roll Bars" to get that Baja Look. This will be ran on the CC-1512 - 2650, Mamba Max and use either 3s or 4s Depending on where I will run it. Geared 18/56 I should be right around 50mph on 3s with my Masher 2k's and I also have some Badlands 30's (about same height at 5" ) I will most likely switch to when I get the Roll bar done. Now I should be able to mount the batteries far forward and blast on the throttle and not just wheelie all day. I would guess about 5-6 lbs when I am finished.
Also, I bought a complete rebuild kit for some old 8ight shocks I had. I will rebuild them and slap em on here as well, to get a nice plush ride, 15mm shocks on a "Rustler"... Should be sweet.
POST SCRIPT: Anyone know the best kind of material to make a ROLL Cage out of ? I was thinking 3/8" Nylon Rod. But I am not an expert on plastics and am unsure if there is a more suitable material?
Thanks - Sean
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 01.25.2011 at 04:59 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
Some Pictures! -
01.27.2011, 01:15 AM
So here is where it starts. I have had the rustler for about 4 years and its time for a little change. It has all the hop ups I needed then and I will make it as bullet proof from here out as I can. I plan to make this a jumper, as it is very light and I will have some nice shocks on it. As you can see it is narrow but its pretty much the same width as my brother law's FLM stampede chassis.
Here you can see I have 32p gears. I think its a 56t Jato spur. FLM Tranny, And if you look up in the front, you can see the posts for the front top deck are just off too far by about 1/4"
Here is an easy fix I came up with. I will just drill two new holes in the top deck, and mount the posts 1/2" closer to the center and 1/4" back (I put the screw app. where I'll mount it). This will also be an nice battery stop when I as some sticky foam to it. I got a 20kg/cm servo. So it will be no problems steering this. I also will put on my 4mm turnbuckles I had for over a year sitting here and replace the 3mm crap...
Another shot of the Rear. I keep the bearing carriers plastic as a weak point. I plan on tapping the arms at the hinge pins and using set screws. I have some serious slop around the holes and I dont want to send them back to FLM yet. But I probably will later and get a new full set...I also have Ofna dog bones for shafts so no worry on twisting them...
Shot of the rear tower with an Ofna Raze wing mount.
The mounts that came with the FLM chassis really made this easy and solid.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
A bit more... -
01.27.2011, 01:18 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
02.09.2011, 08:25 PM
So I finished up the electrics on the Rustler. 1512 on 4s geared 18/56. FAST. But damn near uncontrollable. The masher 2k's get absolutley no traction whatsoever when Off-road (probably because the 1512 and 4s). I might as well have just run around on just rims.  So I slapped on my pin tires (Hotbodies ST tires) for my Maxx . and it handled great around our river track... Even for 2WD I was getting some good laps in. Even the GF was having fun with it, while my niece loves watching. So I ordered some Komodo LP tires, Ofna MT3 rims I will dye black, Just need to build my 8ight shocks and fill them up and slap em on, also ordered my "Rollcage" material. I went with the GS Nylatron 3/8" and I bought some .060" lexan as well to form a Body over the cage. Should be slick when its all said and done.
The 8ight has turned SC8ight. Body is mounted and looks good. Just need to rebuild my shocks and we will be rolling this weekend. I replaced all the bearing as well. The CD bearing were SOO shot, they had like 2mm play each.  Also, when I rebuilt the diffs,I used a Nova-RC cup for the CD. Rear is Losi HD cup and front just stock...
And the Maxx, I rebuilt the 4 RC8 shocks with 50wt oil. I added LST2 sway bars to the rear (and it came out Fing Sweet) Just need to figure out how I will do the front sways. I also replaced all the axle carriers with new Slayer Pro knuckles and fresh bearings. And I will rebuild the diffs, When I do the front and rear diffs they will be getting Nova-RC cups as well as new AVID bearings. They have a sale on the bay right now for $6.50 a cup. (CHEAPER THAN HD PLASTIC CUP).
Will get some Pictures when I find my camera. Kinda sucks I got so much stuff and I cant take any pics... All my rides are being re-done. Will post soon.
-Sean
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
|
Some new Pics and Vids -
02.14.2011, 09:58 PM
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 02.14.2011 at 10:06 PM.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11 Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com
|
 |