Emaxx-Revo-Losi 1/5 AWD On-Road racer

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Nice looking adapter! I had a piece of sch 80 turned down to match the large ID on the bulk. And then had it paired off to the correct width. I did not bother to make the little step like you did, as I saw no need for it. Modding the front pinion support takes a bit of work, you need to turn the inside out to the OD of the nose of the lst case, then clearance the back of the collar to get it to fit against the lst case.

hey thanks lincpimp, -what does that mean?
Yea , I thought I took pics, guess not. I did forget to mention I did use a dremel to enlarge the inside of the collar, then a file to even it up.

Originally Posted by lincpimp

I also like the sectioned lst driveshafts. I see that you sleeved them, did you also weld it too?

Yea once I make my CD / motor mounts I will decide on length needed for the front and rear shafts, Then Weld them

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by SpeedAssault

hey thanks lincpimp, -what does that mean?
Yea , I thought I took pics, guess not. I did forget to mention I did use a dremel to enlarge the inside of the collar, then a file to even it up.

Yea once I make my CD / motor mounts I will decide on length needed for the front and rear shafts, Then Weld them

Sounds like a good idea on the center driveshafts. The pipe I found had the correct ID, so all I had to do was turn the outside down to the correct OD.

lincpimp came from a bunch of us picking up chicks with an old lincoln towncar that I used to own.

[SpeedAssault]

If anyone needs to modify there dif output shafts I found these http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/82021/
just like the traxxas ones you still need to cut off the threads.


I'm still trying to decide on battery setup

Part of me wants 6s lipo 35C 6400mah
but my wallet cant handle it, with this economy and imposible to get a new job

This car maybe be done ready to roll Shelf queen until I can afford a high power Lipo.
it will be just running around with the 3s 2250 30c I have

[SnoopMaxx]

That shaft will not work

1: The hole in the flat section is only 2mm
2: The flat section is too long
3: The flange in the middle
4: The distance between the holes


They are not like the Traxxas ones

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by SnoopMaxx

That shaft will not work

1: The hole in the flat section is only 2mm
2: The flat section is too long
3: The flange in the middle
4: The distance between the holes

They are not like the Traxxas ones

OOPS, I guess it's not as easy to modify. I thought it would need to be grounded to make shorter, drilled, and put in drill press with file to take off the flange. But if the holes are to far apart then it's definitely not worth it.

Thanks for sharing.

cool thing to do is use your axle stubs for this mod and then buy some titanium revo stubs to replace them on the axle.

[SnoopMaxx]

Always do a little R&D

I spend a lot of time looking at pdf files and comparing part numbers
BTW the traxxas ones are $4.79 and the Hpi ones are $7.69 almost double prize

[SpeedAssault]

YEa 1/5 tires !
machining the adapters for them

Center Diff build time
Some parts

Losa 3562 45t spur for the Losi 8 E. a mod1
I took a 43t regular HPI gear and drilled it out to match it up .

Spur pinion Ratio Total ratio 3s speed 6s Speed

49/14 3.5 11.5 28mph 56
49/17 2.88 9.5 36 72
45t/14p 3.21 10.6 32 64
45/12 3.75 12.4 26 52
45/13 3.46 11.4 28 57
44/14 3.14 10.3 31 62
43/12 3.58 11.8 29 58
43/14 3.07 10.15 33 67

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Sounds like a good idea on the center driveshafts. The pipe I found had the correct ID, so all I had to do was turn the outside down to the correct OD.

lincpimp came from a bunch of us picking up chicks with an old lincoln towncar that I used to own.

Linc HAPPY BIRTHDAY

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by SpeedAssault

Linc HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Thanks! I have had a busy b-day week, but it is all good. I get to build lipos all day tomorrow... Yay....

[SpeedAssault]

ANybody know of someyone that has adapted 1/5 wheels on 1/8 or 1/10 trucks ?
My way is a machining nightmare

Some new mock ups,
Making 1/5 wheel adaptors, square drive and some 5/16 wheel bolys to screw onto the trxxas shafts

For wheel adaptors, I used a 5/16 hex cap head bolt drill the center , cut the threads off, then Tap to 10/32 to match traxxas axle threas and then drill a 6mm 1/8 depth. Been a PITA as it does not always center, need a real machine

Making a tranny/motor mount out of Delrin, cause I dont have any 3/16 aluminum.

Since the car lifts the front under acceleration with just 3S , 15:1 ratio The motor will be mounted in the front almost centered

[SpeedAssault]

brightened it up with some yellow

Nice that Castle makes the ESC Black and Yellow, weird the motor is green
Motor will look hot with Silver and Yellow

Any body have a proven way of removing anodize other than phosphoric acid/water mixture ?

maybe I'll just use high temp paint

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by SpeedAssault

brightened it up with some yellow

Nice that Castle makes the ESC Black and Yellow, weird the motor is green
Motor will look hot with Silver and Yellow

Any body have a proven way of removing anodize other than phosphoric acid/water mixture ?

maybe I'll just use high temp paint

I would take a scuff pad to the motor and get in all of the little grooves. Then spray light coats of yellow until it iss covered. Let it dry in the sun for a day or so and the take some light grit sandpaper and sand the fins till the al shows back thru. That would look really good with the black endcaps.

[Overdriven]

I've found Castrol Super Clean degreaser takes off anodizing if you let the parts soak in it. Anodizing isn't that tough it can be polished off pretty easily too. Btw, nice job so far.

Edit: I really like linc's idea, and method.

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

I would take a scuff pad to the motor and get in all of the little grooves. Then spray light coats of yellow until it iss covered. Let it dry in the sun for a day or so and the take some light grit sandpaper and sand the fins till the al shows back thru. That would look really good with the black endcaps.

Hey thanks, yep LOL I was thinking the same , but man sanding all the grooves, Holy cow. maybe I will dab it with TSP to prep for paint.
your right the black end caps finish the touch of color scheme

Originally Posted by Overdriven

I've found Castrol Super Clean degreaser takes off anodizing if you let the parts soak in it. Anodizing isn't that tough it can be polished off pretty easily too. Btw, nice job so far.

Edit: I really like linc's idea, and method.

thanks for compliments
Yea I have used castrol , man is it powerful, it will take paint of car wheels fast. anodize is a chemical bonding, I would not say that is not tough.
I have used oven cleaner on aluminum small part and rapped in aluminum foil, it pitted it something awfull and I watched it and still did not remove all of it./
I found a few search results about anodize removal, but unless you do a proper mix of chemicals other home remedies dont work.

http://www.finishing.com/2000-2199/2076.shtml

thanks guys, I'll post up results

[Overdriven]

The castrol super clean won't pit the aluminum like oven cleaner will, at least on the alum I've done. It will take away any shine, making it dull and in need of polishing. Now that I think about it more, on a motor, I'd use a scotch brite pad like linc said, or a buffing wheel with a medium compound to take off the anodizing. Either will leave a finish that isn't too rough and will be easy to polish up if wanted.

As far anodizing being tough, I was refering more to its abrasion resistance. That's why I think even something with as little abrasiveness as a buffing wheel with a medium compound would be worth considering in your case.

Either way good luck and post up when you're done. And thanks for making me want to change my motor color now!