Bought my Hyper 10SC RTR, LMAO, and review

[DrKnow65]

Well, with the discovery of an outdoor 1/8th non-ROAR track withing ~40 minutes of my house where guys like to run SC's I decided to buy a 4x4 SC truck.

I considered the Losi that is due to come out, but it seemed heavy.
I thought about having an Associated, untill I saw what they were releasing (would put a puking imotocon here if they had one).
So I settled on the Ofna Hyper 10SC as I've had my Hyper 7 for years and I still have all the spare suspension bit's I bought with it, as I've never needed them.

The 10SC showed up and I was a kid in a candy store getting home to open it up.
I decided to buy the RTR as I needed another controller and it comes with a 2.4ghz unit.
I knew I would be immediately tossing the RTR ESC in the spare parts bin along with it's brushed ten cent motor...

I had such a smile on my face that I can honestly say I had a case of perma-grin like I haven't had since I was into drugs
If any of you have seen "Dispicable Me" I was like the little girl who got the fuzzy unicorn, only I was saying "it's SOOO cute!!!".
The 10SC is just like a scaled down Hyper 7! I mean the Hyper 7 is 1/8th of a real car, and everything on this is 20% smaller (1/10).

The RTR stuff really is rubbish (that's euro for CRAP), but that's no surprise.
This 10SC will get a decent radio and a MMP/2400kv SC kit and be run on 4S 2650mah 40/50C Turnigy packs.
It should balance out well as the Castle stuff weighs around 380gr and the lipo is ~360gr but a little farther off the center line.
I'll use one of the new high voltage Savox servo's for steering duties at 7v (291oz in, 0.09s) http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-High-Voltage

Pic's and my review to follow (trying not to write an entire book into a single post).

[DrKnow65]

On to the review.

First impression out of the box was that this thing is going to be a bit of a pain to work on.

First order of business was to strip out the RTR motor and ESC. This stuff is cheap, and though I was intent on shooting a quick video of it running on the RTR gear,
all I had to put in it as far as ~7v batt's was an old MaxAmps 2S 5000 that started as 3S till a cell let go and MA wouldn't cover it a month after I bought it... jack asses.
I figured the lack of speed couldn't be illustrated with this batt as it would have compounded the poor power ;-)

The motor screws are not easily accessable, so I decided to just pull the CD to swap out the motor.
No sneaking the CD out, the shafts don't give you sufficient room to lift it out.
I ended up pulling the rear end off to swap the motor.
Even though I don't intend on swapping gears or motors on a regular basis I think I'll look into a mount I saw that has the motor mounted on a slide in piece that would make this SO much easier.

Old motor out, temporary 2300kv 36mm ammo motor in. I had a hard time setting the mod1 gear mesh because the 11T stock gear that came with the RTR isn't drilled centered?!?!
It wobbles a few thousandths so the mesh is OK/tight, rotate 180' you get OK/loose.
So it looks like I'll steer clear of the Ofna pinions.
I'll get buy with this pinion till I swap up to the MMP/2400kv.

The RTR ESC was near impossible to pry off the chassis without scratching the aluminum but I managed to pull it off.
I HATE servo tape! was a pain to clean the remnants off the chassis so I could put down some industrial hook & loop for the temp MMM install.

While I had the CD out I spun the diffs and they feel like they have silicone in them, some of the early 10SC's only came with grease in the diffs so it looks like I got a recent edition.

The next thing I noticed was all the slop in this truck. The pillow ball suspension doesn't have big grub screws to hold the hubs on like the Hyper 7 does.
Instead it has little plates to secure the hubs. I will look into a solution to shim or grind the assembly to tighten it up some.

The steering posts are sloppy too and there is vertical play in them.
I'm guessing I will find they are a bushing setup and I'll shim them and swap to bearings at some point.
I also don't care for the "bent wire" center link, someone has got to make aluminum steering posts that use an actual ball end link in the center...
We'll see what I can turn/fab up.

The next thing that had me shaking my head was the front CVD's bend if you droop the suspension too much! They are too far into the diff cups.
I fixed this by screwing the pillow balls out ~3/32" and lengthening the steering tie rods an equal amount.
Now I can back the grub screws out all the way to the end of the shock travel without binding the CVD.

The shocks are pretty nice out of the box and should work well for now.
I bought an 8T-E roller and I'll pull it's shocks to go on this 10SC, the 8T is getting 17mm's.

The 10SC seems suprisingly weight forward??? This may change some with the MMP/2400kv and 4S battery,
but I may end up moving things around on the chassis to change the bias.
I know the "bump" chassis has the ability to move the battery tray back another 15mm...

Nice review. I was considering buying one of these but i might just end up converting my hyper 7e to a SC.

Also just a thought, it might have the weight bias a little forward to counteract the pitch-up attitude of most SC trucks in the air and at high speeds.

[DrKnow65]

B-money, managed to get down to the track yesterday. Ran for about 45minutes of furious tweaking before the servo let go.

The truck is a nose diving monster. I ended up cranking up the front end, going to full droop. I slammed the rear end with the grub screws, which worked to make a few reasonable laps.

The servo died because the steering ball end at the servo horn hits the aluminum plate the radio is mounted too.... Poor design.

I brought it home and promptly moved the center diff back 3inches. I swapped the front and rear shafts and drilled/ countersunk new holes. I also moved the battery tray back another 1-1/8inch from its rearmost position.

I'm going to stand the servo up to correct the poor geometry and stop the binding.

I'll post up a pic in a little bit.

[DrKnow65]

This leaves plenty of room for the 1415 2400kv when it shows up next week.
By then I should also have the Losi 8T shocks and a better Savox servo as well.
Everything can go right back to stock if I want with the exception of the 5 new holes in the chassis.

I still have to put in mounting posts for the servo, clearance the battery tray, and drill/ countersink 2 more holes for the battery tray. A little industrial hook&loop for the ESC and radio (which is now going on the battery side), and I should be set.

Oh yah, I need to find a new plastic spur gear and some hardened 3mm pinion gears in various tooth counts. This thing is ungodly loud, way louder than any of my 1/8 steel/steel setups.

[snellemin]

Nice review and comedy.

[bruce750i]

Yeah, the pinion is hard to change on these guys. I see your roll bar didn't last long (I removed mine also), that might add some stress on your body mounts. I used 2x4 slash body posts for replacements.

[DrKnow65]

Bruce750i, moving the motor back like that should allow me to pop the ESC out and have good access to the pinion and motor screws

[DrKnow65]

Batteries showed up

Also got my 8ight T-E roller, very rough and missing the insert for the motor mount, but that's for another thread...

[fastbaja5b]

The STRC Delrin Spur should quieten it down a bit, as for 3mm Pinions I think Ofna make them. Watch your rear dog bones, a lot of people have reported them bending due to excessive suspension travel. May want to put some limiters in your rear shocks.

Also the front bumper sucks I found, the stock body gets caught up in it after a few landings and before you know it, you have cracks left right n centre.

[DrKnow65]

fastbaja5b, thanks for the pointer on the STRC gear, I've got it book marked and I'll get one ordered Friday. As for the pinions, I'll have to see what amainhobbies has in stock as I'm already planning a purchase there. I fully agree the bumper/shovel on the front of this thing blows... I found a few mods guys have done with various plastic and lexan pieces to improve it.

I'm going to start looking into different bodies, but not for a few weeks since I've got a long list of "needs" before I get to the wants...

[DrKnow65]

Just had THE MOST AWSOME rc day EVER!!!

I'll post up pics and maybe a video with all the mods and changes with a data log later today, but in a nutshell this thing is now frigid awsome!

A short teaser, is it's running 8S 1300mah lipo's, a neu 1515/2y, and a Phoenix ICE HV 80 Esc. The data log blew me away, max of 36amps (970watts) 0.76v of ripple and used ~300mah in 7 minutes. The ESC actually got colder during the run (low ambient temps) and the power is good enough to pull wheelies and ballon the tires.

More to come in a few hours...

[DrKnow65]

[DrKnow65]

[YOUTUBE]Q36hTYVOde8[/YOUTUBE]

Here's a video we shot just before dark, tires didn't do too well in the grass. Had a good flip mid video and ended with a broken steering post.
But when the truck's on the street you get a good idea of the performance. Only 29.6 amps max during this run and ~390mah used in 5 minutes.
The grass really boggs it down.

[lincpimp]

Interesting info. Gotta love the 36amp draw! I had similar results with my 8s powered savage. I used a 60hv great planes esc with a feigao 14xl (yeah, real cheap equipment) and 8s 3600 12c lipos (heavy and old). I had great temps on the esc and lipos, even in the summer heat in the south the esc barely went over 100f, and the lipos did not warm up at all. And I got 40-45min out of the setup too. The weak link was the feigao, but with a rcm heatsink/clamp I could keep it around 150f for that 40min bash session. Plenty of power too, I did use mech brakes (esc did not have brakes).

I can imagine that with a good motor like you have that the setup would be even better. You could use a 60amp esc too. Any thoughts on the kontronik 55 escs? They have a car mode and can handle up to 10s IIRC. Had one but never tried it out.

Would love to see some pics of how you laid it out...