Cen Nemesis XL Brushless Conversion

[_paralyzed_]

I think that mounting your motor mount sideways (like in post 16) is the way to go.

Make two plates that attach to the chassis rails with existing holes, drop the diff in to measure the spacers you need then attach the diff to the plates. That would get it low enough and straighten out the axles.

[IrishChamp]

I've strongly considered that, maybe I should revisit the idea, I do think however that I will need to get a new mount as this one is presenting more and more little issues. I just noticed that the motor won't sit flush against the mount because it has a small raised area around the shaft bearing that does not fit into the center slot of the mount.
I've beep looking around locally and online to try and find someone who is willing to make a simple custom mount for a reasonable price, something that attaches to both sides of the chassis and does not need a mounting plate

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

I think that mounting your motor mount sideways (like in post 16) is the way to go.

Make two plates that attach to the chassis rails with existing holes, drop the diff in to measure the spacers you need then attach the diff to the plates. That would get it low enough and straighten out the axles.

[IrishChamp]

Anyone have any experience with Schulz esc's specifically the Future L 40.100. How do they compare to Kontronk esc's, any frequent failures etc? Would this esc be adequate?
I can't find much info on them, do they have a bec like the Kontronik esc's?

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

Anyone have any experience with Schulz esc's specifically the Future L 40.100. How do they compare to Kontronk esc's, any frequent failures etc? Would this esc be adequate?
I can't find much info on them, do they have a bec like the Kontronik esc's?

Schulze never replaces a burnt esc, they always say it is the users fault, so there is no warranty.

They are good esc's but very expensive, and very very large. Bigger than a deck of cards.

What voltage do you plan on running? I think an IceHV 160 and a pistix will work for you, and cost hundreds less than a schulze or kontronik.

[IrishChamp]

I'd like to have reverse that's why I'm looking at Kontronok and this Schulz came up for $220, much cheaper than any used Kontronik esc's. I'm running 10s to start.
Do Schulz burn up often? I'm not sure if this 40.100 would be any better than a Kontronik jive 80hv and if it would be up to the task of operating acceleration and braking on this big truck. My biggest concern is the braking amp/voltage spikes regardless of what esc I choose.
The Kontronik esc's are waterproof and hugely underrated plus the built in quality BEC makes them my first choice, I just trying to find a nice jive 120hv for a reasonable price.

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

Schulze never replaces a burnt esc, they always say it is the users fault, so there is no warranty.

They are good esc's but very expensive, and very very large. Bigger than a deck of cards.

What voltage do you plan on running? I think an IceHV 160 and a pistix will work for you, and cost hundreds less than a schulze or kontronik.

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

I'd like to have reverse that's why I'm looking at Kontronok and this Schulz came up for $220, much cheaper than any used Kontronik esc's. I'm running 10s to start.
Do Schulz burn up often? I'm not sure if this 40.100 would be any better than a Kontronik jive 80hv and if it would be up to the task of operating acceleration and braking on this big truck. My biggest concern is the braking amp/voltage spikes regardless of what esc I choose.
The Kontronik esc's are waterproof and hugely underrated plus the built in quality BEC makes them my first choice, I just trying to find a nice jive 120hv for a reasonable price.

No, schulzes are no more prone to burning up than any other esc. The schulze you are looking at is an airplane esc, would require a pistix and does not have reverse.

Are you sure the jive has reverse? That is news to me..

[_paralyzed_]

From the jive manual:

7.1 Auto-Programming-Mode APM (Mode 1) 19
7.2 Glider-Mode (Mode 2) 19
7.3 Motor-Plane/ Boat-Mode (Mode 3) 19
7.4 Heli-Mode (Mode 4) 19
7.5 Competition-Mode (Mode 5) 20
7.6 Car-Mode Race: one direction, proportional brake (Mode 6) 20
7.7 Reverse Motor Rotation (Mode 7) 20
7.8 F3A Motor Plane Mode (Mode 8) 20
7.9 LiPo Mode (Mode 9) 20
7.10 KSA-Mode (Mode 10) 20
7.11 Heli Mode with constant RPM control

The car mode has one direction, jive controllers do not have reverse.

[IrishChamp]

Hmmm, I must be loosing it. I destinctly remember looking at the manual and under mode 6 instructions there was the race mode and then a couple other
sub options, one of them being forward/reverse with proportional braking.
I wonder if there is a newer or older manual I looked at originally??

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

From the jive manual:

7.1 Auto-Programming-Mode APM (Mode 1) 19
7.2 Glider-Mode (Mode 2) 19
7.3 Motor-Plane/ Boat-Mode (Mode 3) 19
7.4 Heli-Mode (Mode 4) 19
7.5 Competition-Mode (Mode 5) 20
7.6 Car-Mode Race: one direction, proportional brake (Mode 6) 20
7.7 Reverse Motor Rotation (Mode 7) 20
7.8 F3A Motor Plane Mode (Mode 8) 20
7.9 LiPo Mode (Mode 9) 20
7.10 KSA-Mode (Mode 10) 20
7.11 Heli Mode with constant RPM control

The car mode has one direction, jive controllers do not have reverse.

[lutach]

The Schulze L ESC has a car mode and no pistix required. I had the old 40.160 and it was a beast. Not sure how the new ones are built, but the older ones had what it seemed to be a thick copper heat sink in between the PCB. The Schulze L has a larger footprint compared to the Jive. The Jive has a car mode, but I don't think it has reverse. The Schulze L, XL and XXL are all OPTO and you'll need an RX pack or external BEC. Schulze was going to release the M series which was going to have a BEC for their HV units, but they will not be available this year. That cheap Jive 120HV in the other forum is looking good, too bad my 10S ESC is still going strong .

[lutach]

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

Hmmm, I must be loosing it. I destinctly remember looking at the manual and under mode 6 instructions there was the race mode and then a couple other
sub options, one of them being forward/reverse with proportional braking.
I wonder if there is a newer or older manual I looked at originally??

The other option is to reverse the motor's rotation. The Jazz ESCs is the one that has the option for for/rev w/prop. braking.

[_paralyzed_]

Woops I was wrong about the schulze, I didn't realize it was an "L" model. For $220.00 that's looking like a good option.

[IrishChamp]

Maybe I was looking at the Jazz manual.

Do you think the 40.100 Schilz Furure L would be adequate for my build? 100 amps continuous would be cutting it close but if it has headroom like the kontronik esc's it might be enough.

Originally Posted by lutach

The other option is to reverse the motor's rotation. The Jazz ESCs is the one that has the option for for/rev w/prop. braking.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

Maybe I was looking at the Jazz manual.

Do you think the 40.100 Schilz Furure L would be adequate for my build? 100 amps continuous would be cutting it close but if it has headroom like the kontronik esc's it might be enough.

I've heard that the older 40.160 would regularly burst to over 300A on big airplanes. Mine came close to 200A when I used it with my Neu 1521/1Y a couple of times on 10S which I don't recommend. I really don't know how the new ESCs are built and if they have the same capabilities of the older units. If you keep your speed bellow 40mph (without tire ballooning), you might be able to keep you burst AMPs to about 100A and you could average around 20-30A (Maybe lower). At the moment, I take any ESC rating as the burst AMP rating which occurs mostly on hard accelerations. If I were you, I would contact Schulze first and ask them if the 40.100 would be enough.

[IrishChamp]

I emailed Schulz. I'll report back what they say.

Originally Posted by lutach

I've heard that the older 40.160 would regularly burst to over 300A on big airplanes. Mine came close to 200A when I used it with my Neu 1521/1Y a couple of times on 10S which I don't recommend. I really don't know how the new ESCs are built and if they have the same capabilities of the older units. If you keep your speed bellow 40mph (without tire ballooning), you might be able to keep you burst AMPs to about 100A and you could average around 20-30A (Maybe lower). At the moment, I take any ESC rating as the burst AMP rating which occurs mostly on hard accelerations. If I were you, I would contact Schulze first and ask them if the 40.100 would be enough.

[IrishChamp]

Btw, where's this cheap jive 120 you speak of? :)

Originally Posted by lutach

The Schulze L ESC has a car mode and no pistix required. I had the old 40.160 and it was a beast. Not sure how the new ones are built, but the older ones had what it seemed to be a thick copper heat sink in between the PCB. The Schulze L has a larger footprint compared to the Jive. The Jive has a car mode, but I don't think it has reverse. The Schulze L, XL and XXL are all OPTO and you'll need an RX pack or external BEC. Schulze was going to release the M series which was going to have a BEC for their HV units, but they will not be available this year. That cheap Jive 120HV in the other forum is looking good, too bad my 10S ESC is still going strong .