Soldering/Wiring/Ice ESC/Bullets PROBLEMS & QUERIES

[rawfuls]

Have to agree with Big-Block, I listen to a weekly podcast of flight stuff (I know, not cars), and a guy, Lucien Miller (?), a very wide distributor of Scorpion Motors, and the owner of http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com

He ALWAYS recommends cutting the pre-tinned part off, and re-doing it, because you really don't know what solder CC used.

It could be a high, or low temp solder, and it would be better off to use the same constant solder all around, then having your own, let's say low temp solder mixed with high temp solder, the bond between the two wouldn't be as solid, as it would be with a constant low temp solder..

Temp is just a variable, could be anything, really.

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

It could be a high, or low temp solder, and it would be better off to use the same constant solder all around, then having your own, let's say low temp solder mixed with high temp solder, the bond between the two wouldn't be as solid, as it would be with a constant low temp solder..

Temp is just a variable, could be anything, really.

If the connectors are getting hot enough to melt even "low temp" solder then you have bigger problems to address. If the bonds aren't strong then that's what you call a "cold joint", meaning the connector/wire wasn't hot enough for the solder to stick to it. The only solders I've ever used for electronics are 60/40 Tin/Lead and 62/36/2 Tin/Lead/Silver. Even when mixed they perform fine.

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

If the connectors are getting hot enough to melt even "low temp" solder then you have bigger problems to address. The only solders I've ever used for electronics are 60/40 Tin/Lead and 62/36/2 Tin/Lead/Silver. Even when mixed they perform fine.

Well yes.

But how about lead vs. lead free?

Many manufacturers are using more lead free, to get some stamp of approval, and mixing with lead solder wouldn't be too fun.

It's just another variable...